NAKED, save for the distressingly small towel wrapped around my waist, I lay on the marble slab and gazed at the light streaming through the domed ceiling as the sweat rolled off me in rivers.

This was a real Turkish bath in Turkey. The Cemberlitas hammam, built in 1584. A minute’s walk from Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. The large Turkish gentleman confronting me knew but two words of English “sit” and “lie”.

I did as ordered and he soaped my body with a sponge, doused me with buckets of warm water and then pummelled and kneaded me for 30 minutes, before handing me over to a colleague who massaged me with hands of steel. The pain was excruciating. I wanted to cry. Maybe I did, just a little.

After two hours and several more trips to the steam room, I emerged into the bright light of Istanbul feeling mangled but undeniably clean.

Istanbul’s old city overwhelms the visitor with the wail of sirens, the clanging of tram bells and the crush of locals, tourists and hustlers as they jostle for space in this city of about 13 million people which was first settled about 1100BC.

It is undeniably exotic, the old city surrounded by mosques and castles built on a site that has been occupied by the Byzantines, Persians, Greeks, Romans and, more lately, the Muslim Ottoman sultans.

It is bordered by the Bosporus, that river-like body of water that connects the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea and the former Soviet socialist republics that lie beyond.

The Golden Horn, an inlet of the Bosporus, divides the city and the seven hills that surround it.

If you were to travel by boat downstream from Istanbul, heading down the Bosporus and across the Sea of Marmara, you would eventually come to another narrow seaway.

It is one the Allies tried to penetrate in World War I, their failure to do so resulting in the name Gallipoli being writ large in Australian military history.

We picked up a brochure for a day trip to Gallipoli, which left at dawn and returned about 10pm. A day spent in a bus didn’t appeal and Gallipoli was left for another day and another trip.

Our hotel was on the tram line that runs through the heart of the old city, which proved to be a significant advantage. The fare was two Turkish lira no matter how many stops you travelled, the trams modern and clean.

We watched from the upper level of a double-decker Red Bus tour as a black Volkswagen cut across a lane of traffic, clipped the side of a mini-van and slammed into a tree, exploding in a shower of broken glass and steam.

A few seconds later the driver emerged, talking into his mobile phone and apparently unhurt, his car just another casualty of the insane driving habits of Istanbullahs.

Take a Red Bus tour a get-on, get-off journey around the city, which crosses the Golden Horn to Taksim Square, returning to the Blue Mosque.

We sipped coffee and ate pastries stuffed with spinach and fetta cheese most mornings before catching a tram to Sultanahmet, where the parklands surrounding the Blue Mosque were packed with tourists.

Late one afternoon, tiring of the throng, we retired to the rooftop bar of the Seven Hills Hotel in the shadow of the Blue Mosque with a magnificent 270-degree view across the Bosporus at its confluence with the Golden Horn.

At 4.30pm, as the light began to soften, a voice cut through the warm air, high-pitched and plaintive as the muezzin called the faithful to prayer. Soon it was joined by another and then another, a stereo exhortation echoing over the roofs of the city.

On another day we caught a tram to Kabatas and then a funicular to Taksim Square and strolled down the broad streets that radiate from it, stopping for coffee and baklava. The streets are lined with some of Istanbul’s better retail outlets, with dark, narrow laneways disappearing down steep hills and all lined with small shops and stalls.

Rather than take an organised tour, we jumped on a ferry heading up the Bosporus. It was a journey of about two hours past the mansions of Istanbul’s more prosperous citizens. We disembarked at Kavagi and caught a local bus, which for two lira gave us an hour-long journey through the pine forests and towns that cling to the Bosporus’s banks on the Asian side, before depositing us back to the city.

The next day we plunged into the Grand Bazaar, home to 4000 shops. It’s a bewildering, although surprisingly orderly, market selling quality copies of high-end fashion label clothing, jewellery, handbags, homewares, furnishings, tourist tack, quality ceramics, brass, silverware and carpets by the thousand. You haggle for everything and the first offer is half the asking price.

We had sworn before leaving Australia that we were absolutely not going to buy a carpet. Then we walked into Yagmur Rugs Gallery Carpets and Kilims, where we met a man who had once sold carpets at Brisbane’s Home Show and who claimed to have been interviewed by Ray Martin.

Surely he had to be fair dinkum so we sat and drank some impossibly sweet rose tea in tiny cups. Perhaps we would like to see a carpet? Just one or two? Suddenly staff and carpets began to appear.

The haggling started. We eventually did a deal and walked out owning a carpet, which duly arrived, to our considerable relief, 10 days after we got back to Australia. Did we pay too much? Who knows? But we love it.

There must be some good restaurants in Istanbul. I know there are some terrible ones and anything within two blocks of the main tram line I would treat with suspicion. The one good meal we had was at The Fish House restaurant in Sultanahmet. Try the sea bass baked in a salt crust.

Istanbul is one of the world’s great cities. It’s exotic, cosmopolitan, uniquely placed between Europe and Asia and, as I discovered when I was relieved of a pair of reading glasses while riding the tram, boasts some of the world’s most skilled pickpockets.

The writer was a guest of Emirates and Creative Holidays.
–

ISTANBUL

Getting there

Emirates flies from Sydney to Istanbul via Dubai.
See emirates.com.au

Staying there

Creative Holidays has a five-night package staying at the Ramada Istanbul Old City for $480 a person, twin share.
See creativeholidays.com.au

ISTANBUL — The sea of Marmara shimmered to my right, a pod of dolphins played improbably in the ferry-and tankers-choked Bosporus strait, and minarets pierced my jet-lag fog on my first Istanbul evening.

Walking down the main road in Istanbul’s old city the next morning, I was pulled out of my reverie when an older, heavily mustachioed man leaned out the window of his rickety car and boomed, “American?”

Photos

( Giovanna Dell’Orto / Associated Press ) – This July 2011 photo shows boaters and swimmers along the coastline of the Datca peninsula, near the ruins of Knidos, a seventh-century B.C. Greek town, Turkey. Datca is just one stop on a driving tour from Istanbul down the Aegean coast.

( Giovanna Dell’Orto / Associated Press ) – This July 2011 photo shows the fourth century B.C. temple of Apollo at Dydima, now in the middle of the modern Turkish city of Didim on the southern Aegean coast, Turkey.

( Giovanna Dell’Orto / Associated Press ) – This July 2011 photo shows the remains of intricately carved buildings that line the main street of the ancient Roman city of Ephesus, Turkey, one of the richest archeological sites in the Mediterranean region.

( Giovanna Dell’Orto / Associated Press ) – This July 2011 photo shows the coastline of Assos, Turkey. The northern Aegean village of Assos, with its elegant stone houses converted into hotels and a small fishing harbor, is just one stop on a driving tour from Istanbul down the Aegean coast.

( Giovanna Dell’Orto / Associated Press ) – This July 2011 photo shows the fourth century B.C. temple of Apollo at Dydima, now in the middle of the modern Turkish city of Didim on the southern Aegean coast, Turkey.

Suddenly aware of my short sleeves and skirt on a trip last summer to a city where many women wear long coats even in hot weather, I smiled sheepishly.

“Ah, have a good day!” he yelled in English, breaking a wide grin, to which all I could do was reply “cok iyi,” meaning very good, the Turkish words I had learned on my first day here in an impromptu lesson from a taxi driver.

via Istanbul and the Aegean coast offer seascapes, antiquities and most of all, a warm welcome – The Washington Post.

Continue Reading :

http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/travel/istanbul-and-the-aegean-coast-offer-seascapes-antiquities-and-most-of-all-a-warm-welcome/2012/01/27/gIQADm8gVQ_story.html

Istanbul was a city steeped in mystery. Historically it was known as Byzantium and Constantinople and had been the capital of the Roman, Byzantium, Latin and Ottoman Empires.

Visiting it with my mother on our way around the world from Hong Kong was going to be a real treat—especially to see the handsome faces of the men. The women had dark features and their own beauty, but it was a city and nation represented by virility. A testosterone capital.

Istanbul was located on the Bosphorus Strait and encompassed the natural harbor, the Golden Horn. It extended to European and Asian sides of the Bosphorus and was the only metropolis situated on two continents.

Mother and I stayed in the Hilton, which was a surprise as far as comfort, and not far from the Crazy Horse, a nightclub known for its exotic dancers. Here they were belly dancers. There were Crazy Horse Saloons in Beirut and the original was in Paris.

In 1954, Conrad Hilton chose Istanbul as the first city outside of the U.S. to build his hotel franchise. By 1966, the Istanbul Hilton was thriving. Close to Taksim Square and not far from the Golden Horn it was a good choice for a mother/daughter combo in need of assistance in navigating the intrigue of the Turkish culture. The Hilton was a Turkish delight.

After mother and I had flown through the night, at 9 a.m. we arrived, napped and then dressed.

“Let’s go to Taksim Square,” I said to her.

“What’s that?” she asked.

“We’ll find out,” I said as I laced my sneakers.

The concierge and staff were respectful to my mother and to me, unlike in Tokyo, where the employees of the Imperial Hotel smiled and were gracious to our faces, but when we walked away and I looked over my shoulder, I caught them ridiculing my mother who had been a farmer.

After strolling through the magnificent lobby, I realized why this hotel deserved its first five-star rating and was the first hotel in Istanbul to achieve this.

A storm was brewing and it was 4 p.m. We walked in the direction the concierge had indicated and were amazed at the chaos and traffic in the streets. Shops lined Istiklal Caddesi, the Avenue that led us to Taksim Square, and of course, there was a McDonald’s, as they were everywhere. It was crowded.

“Want a Big Mac?” I asked mother.

“Carole, I haven’t traveled half way around the world for a Big Mac. Let’s have something Turkish.”

“OK, “I said. “How’s this bistro?” We had come upon a charming restaurant.

“Looks interesting,” Mom said. She opened the door as a handsome Turkish man held it for her. His demeanor was friendly, but I cautioned mother after he asked if he could sit with us.

via Flying Into Istanbul for Turkish Delight | TheWrap TV.

More: http://www.thewrap.com/tv/blog-post/flying-istanbul-turkish-delight-34207

EASTERN PROMISE: The Bosphorus Bridge connects Europe with Asia in the ancient capital of Istanbul.

International

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We wait on the edge of Istanbul for the number 150 to Garipce. The bus, when it comes, is an old one like from my childhood. And it complains constantly as we lurch through the folding hills above the Bosphorus. Occasionally the land parts and we glimpse the mercurial strait of wind-tossed water below, dividing Europe and Asia and coursing between Istanbul and the Black Sea.

For many tourists a day-trip out of heady Istanbul means island-hopping the Princes’ Islands. Instead my wife and I are weaving up the European shore of the Bosphorus. Istanbulites drive up on weekends, unwinding and eating at villages that hug the water’s edge. We’ve come midweek to avoid the crowds. And by the looks of our fellow passengers – old men, mothers, all Turks – it’s an idyllic day-trip that remains off the tourist to-do list.

We drop out of the hills into tiny Garipce. Half-hidden in a sheltered Bosphorus cove, its name is Turkish for “strange”.

via Travel | Turkey Istanbul Bosphorus | Stuff.co.nz.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/travel/international/6306258/Escape-up-the-Bosphorus

LISA VAN WYK

Great heights: The Nizamiye Mosque, currently being built in Midrand, is based on Ottoman architect Sinan's Selimiye Mosque in Edirne, Turkey. (Madelene Cronjé)

“Breathtaking” is a word that is overused, but if you have been fortunate enough to visit one of Ottoman architect Sinan’s masterpieces, such as the Süleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul, you will know exactly what that word can mean.

Everything about the building, from the dizzying scale of its elaborately decorated central dome, to details such as the hand-painted Iznik tiles which seem to adorn every available surface, takes one’s breath away. Upon entering the mosque for the first time, I gasped.

The Süleymaniye Mosque was built more than 500 years ago, and it is rare to find modern buildings that demonstrate the same meticulous and time-consuming craftsmanship. South Africans will soon be able to experience first-hand the attention to detail and proportion that is so characteristic of Ottoman design.

The Nizamiye Mosque complex in Midrand, which will be completed in early 2012, is based on the Selimiye Mosque in Edirne, Turkey, a building that was designed by Sinan in 1568. Like the original, the complex includes community facilities — a school for 800 pupils, a conference room, shops, a restaurant and a clinic.

No expense has been spared in the building’s design and execution, with total costs estimated at about R210-million.

Mandela’s blessing

The man behind the project is Turkish businessman Ali Katircioglu, who has relocated to South Africa with his wife for the duration of the project, and will return to his home in Istanbul when the building is complete.

Uncle Ali, as he is affectionately known, was encouraged to build the mosque and the school by his close friend Fethullah Gülen, an influential and often controversial Turkish cleric and philanthropist who now lives in the United States.

Katircioglu said the project was given Nelson Mandela’s blessing when he met the former president in 2007, who encouraged him to include facilities that would benefit the larger community, such as a clinic.

While these facilities are far from complete, the mosque itself is in the finishing stages, with a few skilled artisans (imported from Turkey) putting the final touches to its decorative elements.

The basic building blocks of the project, such as the 800 tonnes of concrete that was used to build the main structure of the mosque, have all been sourced locally and put together using a local workforce. The details, such as the tiles, the calligraphy, the painting on the dome and the stained glass windows, have all either been shipped to South Africa from Turkey, or have been completed locally using imported materials.

Imposing scale

The mosque’s distinctive silhouette is a welcome sight in the otherwise bland and uniform Midrand landscape that surrounds it, but it is only once one enters the complex that its scale becomes apparent. The mosque can accommodate 3 500 people, and many more if one includes its courtyard and the balconies on either side. Its central dome is 24 metres across and 32 metres high, only slightly smaller than Sinan’s imposing original, and the courtyard is bordered by 22 smaller domes.

Despite its size, no shortcuts have been taken when it comes to small details. The Iznik-style tiles have been used throughout the mosque’s interior and exterior, some embossed, some hand-painted. The heavy, carved doors have been imported from Turkey, and lead visitors into a room that, even in its unfinished state, is almost too much for the eye to take in at once. In January, the carpet was still to arrive but Mehmet Naci Kaya, who will be the headmaster of the school and who showed the Mail & Guardian around the complex, explained that it will mirror the hand-painted decorations that adorn the dome and ceiling.

The tour guide and Uncle Ali insisted that visitors would be welcome to explore the complex, and they hoped it would become a tourist attraction and meeting place for those of many faiths and backgrounds. Mosques, after all, have always been more than places of worship.

Hidden between the domes are solar panels that provide enough electricity to power the mosque’s lights and heat the water in the ablution rooms.

Full of life

While the juxtaposition between new technology and old design is probably worth noting, it was more interesting to learn about the mosque’s resident pigeons, who have been encouraged to make their homes in niches around the domes to ensure that the mosque is never devoid of life, even in the middle of the night.

But what is most striking about the building, and, I suppose, should really be the most notable part of any architecture, is how welcoming it is.

There is no doubt that Uncle Ali’s charm had something to do with this (he insisted on filling our pockets with sweets as we left), as did the patience with which my terrible attempts at basic Turkish conversation were tolerated.

But there is something the sanctuary of its courtyard, the generosity of its proportions, and the affection with which every detail has been produced, that leaves a visitor reluctant to leave, even if one only had the pigeons for company. Driving back to Jo’burg through endless stretches of anonymous, mass-produced and meanly-built complexes and construction projects only made this all the more obvious.

via God in the details – Leisure – Mail & Guardian Online.

Guest Editor:

- Daniel Szelényi, Kiwi Expert

Our Daniel Szelényi, Kiwi Expert, shares his love for Istanbul (including where to eat, sleep, spa and sightsee there), but also tips us off to some other luxurious Turkish locales worth exploring.

Wherever you look these days, Istanbul is being lauded as the coolest, hippest, most exciting, diverse, trendiest, up-and-coming destination; it was most recently voted “Best City” by British Airways’ 2011 Travel Awards.

Personally, I couldn’t agree more. It’s an amazing metropolis combining fabulous food (try the terrace at Ajia), hip hotels (like the super sexy, Autoban designed House Hotel Bosphorus, pictured below), sensational spas (the one at Ian Schrager and Bill Marriott’s recent Istanbul EDITION is fabulous) and great sightseeing (the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet is your ideal base).

If there is a flaw to Istanbul it’s probably the traffic, which is a bit of a nightmare, but speaking with locals they assure you you get used to it. You just have to.

A trip to Istanbul should always be complemented by exploring more of the country, and the options are plentiful. Most people would venture to one of the many beach destinations like Antalya, Belek or Bodrum. If that’s your thing, try Casa dell’Arte in Bodrum for a discreet alternative to the classic resorts.

However, I would highly recommend a trip to Cappadocia in Central Anatolia, the geographic heart of Turkey. The unique landscape with its fairy chimney rock formations, a UNESCO World Heritage site, combined with the region’s cultural and historical heritage is a one-of-a-kind experience.

Creative hoteliers have turned some of the distinctive caves that are unique to the region into stunning hotels. I have to date slept in water towers, gun powder factories and tree houses, and I was very much looking forward to staying in a cave.

Your best bet is Argos in Cappadocia. A spectacular yet discreet cave hotel, it has been carefully extended over the last seven years to blend into the hillside architecture of the little village Uchisar, while offering stunning views over the picturesque valley.

Interiors are courtesy of Istanbul-based interior designer Oytun Berktan (whose showroom is a must visit when in the capital), and some suites come with their own in-cave pools.

The region is fabulous for hiking and trekking, but also don’t miss out on hot air ballooning. Royal Balloon provides one of the best experiences, combining altitude with low level hovering through the valleys, at times only meters above ground. Experienced pilots, like 17-year veteran and Royal Balloon Chief Pilat Suat Ulusoy, can steer the balloon so close to the trees you can actually pick apples from the branches.

Be prepared to get up early, as balloons take off around sunrise. The magic of the sun appearing behind the uniquely shaped mountains however is definitely worth crawling out of bed early.

Similar to Istanbul, there is quite a lot of traffic with at times nearly 100 balloons in the air, but here it’s a beautiful sight! As a bit of an adrenaline junkie I would have never thought a slow-moving balloon would leave me so stoked, but it is this very slow-paced life in Cappadocia that is such a wonderful contrast to Istanbul’s urban dynamics.

If I could have, I would have taken Suat’s balloon back to Istanbul.

via Trip Tips: Sunrise Balloon Rides and a Cave Hotel in Cappadocia, Plus Other Turkish Delights | Passport Luxury Travel Blog | Kiwi Collection.

More : http://www.kiwicollection.com/blog/trip-tips-hot-air-ballons-and-a-cave-hotel-in-cappadocia-and-other-turkish-delights/19228

—

I spent 18 days in Turkey, 5 of which I spent on a short adventure visiting some amazing sites. The rest I spent in amazing Istanbul. I am sure you are probably wondering what in the world did I do there during my time there. Well aside from the AMAZING NEW YEARS and making out with the Turkish man of my dreams I also managed to see and do A LOT. Here are some photos of what I did while I was there. I also think these photos will give you insight as to why I am now in love with this city. It is really the greatest city in the world.

via Istanbul Dreaming… | Breakaway Backpacker.

more photos

>> http://breakawaybackpacker.com/2012/01/istanbul-dreaming/

(ANSAmed) – ISTANBUL, JANUARY 19 – Syria has “a malignant attitude” toward the Dedeman Hotels International, as well as other Turkish and foreign businesses active in the country, according to a press release yesterday by the company, a Turkish hotelier, whose hotel operating contracts were canceled by the Syrian government, as daily Hurriyet reports today. Contracts that granted the Istanbul-based Dedeman the right to operate hotels in three Syrian cities were canceled by the Syrian government in the last four weeks. The first contract regarding Dedeman Hotel Aleppo was canceled December 29, 2011, and contracts regarding Dedeman’s Damascus and Tadmur hotels were canceled Januariy 17, according to Sana, Syria’s official news agency. Dedeman has not yet received any official notice from Syria about the cancellations, the company said. “It is saddening to reflect its domestic political developments in business life this way. We will take every step to protect our legal rights,” said Tamer Yorukoglu, Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International CEO. Dedeman could not meet forecasts envisaged in the auction process due to an economic crisis that started in 2009 and the instability caused by the political developments which came about from the beginning of last year, Dedeman said.

The renovation of three hotels had be assumed by the Syrian Ministry of Tourism according to the contracts, but the obligation was fulfilled by the ministry, said the company, adding that renovation project for those three hotels was submitted to the tourism ministry, but no positive move was made. (ANSAmed).

Short Breaks In Istanbul

FOR a city break that transports you to another time as well as another place, it has to be Istanbul. As the centre of two ancient empires, the Ottoman and Byzantine, it is rich in awe-inspiring historical sites.

For the adventurous traveller, it’s an exotic, otherworldly place packed with delights: wander the labyrinth of bazaars, relax in a traditional hamam, and experience a ‘hookah’ water-pipe café. But don’t expect a city stuck in the past. Modern day Istanbul is also home to chic cocktail bars, skyscrapers and a forward-looking cultural scene led by its younger generation.

Top Five Things to Do in Istanbul

The Sultanahmet Blue Mosque

Gaze at the cascading domes and six minarets of this magnificent place of worship. Decorated in turquoise mosaics, and dominating the skyline of Istanbul, it’s known as one of the most beautiful mosques in the world.

The Hippodrome

Head to Sultanahmet Square to find the ancient site of the Hippodrome of Constantinople where chariots once raced in front of cheering crowds. Nowadays, the race track is indicated with paving and the surviving monuments are set within a landscaped garden.

Topkapi Palace

Marvel at the grandeur of this Ottoman palace with its courtyards, gardens, and sacred relics including Moses’ staff and Muhammad’s sword. Spend a full day there if you can, taking in the Harem, the views over the Bosphorus, and the glittering riches of the Imperial Treasury.

St Sophia

Discover why this domed basilica is often referred to as the Eighth Wonder of the World. Once a church, and then a mosque, it’s now a well-presented museum. Its towering domes, minarets, frescoes and mosaics are one of the city’s most impressive sights.

Grand Bazaar

Brave the enthusiastic traders at this sprawling covered market spread across 58 streets. Jewellery, carpets, ceramics, and coloured lanterns are just some of the goods to be haggled over. Bargaining is obligatory – ask for prices at three or four different stalls before you buy.

via Short Breaks In Istanbul | Abroad | Planet Confidential.

The Blue Mosque in Istanbul The Blue Mosque in Istanbul

(ANSAmed) – ISTANBUL, JANUARY 11 – The Turkish metropolis on the Bosporus is the most popular destination the world over to get married in and in which to hold wedding receptions, profiting the local industry greatly. This fact surfaced in a survey conducted by a Turkish website which provides information to couples who will be getting married soon, and which shows that over the first 11 months of 2011 Istanbul saw a total of 166,000 receptions compared with the 114,000 in Las Vegas (Nevada, USA).

There are a reported 600,000 couples who get married every year in Turkey, with an average age of 24 for women and 27 for men.

The number of guests invited to each reception average 240, with an average cost of 25,000 Turkish liras (10,460 euros). The survey also shows that 30 million Turkish liras (12.5 million euros) in turnover is related to weddings. The sectors benefitting the most are those of wedding attire (theme-based shopping centres see a total of 150,000 visitors per year, with people coming from the Middle East, the Balkans and Greece as well), jewellery (with estimated turnover of around 2.5 billion euros per year, 65% of which concentrated in Istanbul) and the reception organisation. According to the manager of a luxury hotel in Istanbul, 40% of the couples tying the knot in the city on the Bosporus are foreigners, coming mostly from Lebanon, Azerbaijan, Greece, North America and Russia, but some are also from Europe. In November the World of Marriage Fair 2011 was held in Istanbul, with 200 companies from around the world taking part, including companies operating in the jewellery and wedding attire sectors as well as connected sectors. (ANSAmed).

via Turkey: Istanbul top wedding tourism destination – Turkey – ANSAMed.it.